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A Glimpse Into the Grand Homes of the Old Gentry
by Renz Marion D. Katigbak
Lipa Plaza and Surrounding Houses - Leslie's Weekly (March 20, 1902)
Driven by the coffee boom of the late 19th century, Lipa flourished into one of the most prosperous towns of the Philippine archipelago during the Spanish era. In 1887, Queen Regent Maria Cristina of Spain honored it with the title “Villa de Lipa,” recognizing its “economic achievements attained in a short time and the virtue and hard work” of the Lipeños. The town’s transformation was epitomized by the grand homes of its leading families—magnificent structures that were both symbols of economic power and bastions of cultural sophistication. These residences not only showcased architectural elegance but also reflected the vibrant social and economic life of Lipa during its golden age.
The Palatial Residences of Lipa
The streets of Lipa during its heyday were a stunning tableau of opulence. About 40 to 60 houses (some were three-story high), with tiled roofs, wrought-iron balconies, and thick stone walls occupied the town’s thoroughfares. Many of these structures featured wide entrances, colorful stained-glass windows, and spacious rooftops (azoteas) adorned with vases and potted plants. Gardens bursting with jasmine and roses surrounded these homes, adding idyllic beauty to the townscape. According to the article Donde Florecieron Los Cafetos (Where Coffee Plants Bloomed, written in 1911), these “houses were so numerous and grand that they overshadowed the humble nipa huts still found in the barrios.” This architectural renaissance was born out of necessity as much as ambition. After the devastating fire incidents in the years 1868 and 1869, the residents of Lipa banned the use of nipa and cogon grass in construction, opting instead for fire-resistant materials such as stone and galvanized iron roofs. The result was a townscape that resembled a first-class city.
"Mga bahay niyon ay lagta-lagta pa
Naturingang bato'y walang makikita
Mga tablang pawa, kawayan ang iba
At agwat sa calle tirik ng lahat na."
"Bihirang bihira naturingang kapis
At walang mataas na bahay ang tindig
Pawang mga pandak at hugis kamalig
Na ang mga tangkil nito'y matatarik."
"Walang tisang bubong at wala ring chin
Sa kogon ay yunot, ang una nang galing
Sa mga bintana'y tuhog na pamitin
Ay panindang Hawo’t at hinog na saging…"
(Selected verses from Don Emiliano Macarandang Manguiat’s 1888 poem "Ang Bayan ng Lipa" describing the town in its early days, when homes were still built from light, native materials.)
Luxurious Interiors and Furnishings
The wealth of Lipa’s gentry extended far beyond the façades of their homes. Inside, these grand residences reflected refined taste and cosmopolitan influence. Lending an air of timeless elegance, the interiors were adorned with marble-topped tables, gilded mirrors, Vienna bentwood chairs, ivory statues of saints, and European oil paintings—many imported at great expense. Furniture was crafted from fine hardwoods like narra, often painted black or intricately carved. A surviving photograph of the Olaguivel-Solis home reveals such opulence: wide narra floorboards, decorative blackamoors, and a bedroom entrance framed by elaborate calado, a wooden latticework.
Among the most celebrated residences was that of Dr. José Lozada and Doña Germana Solis, known for its collection of artistic treasures. One of its centerpieces was a striking display of Juan Luna’s Spoliarium, prominently placed in the sala, along with a set of Satsuma vases gifted by the Luna brothers in gratitude for the couple’s financial support of the Propaganda Movement in the late 19th century.
Dining rooms in Lipa’s finest homes were spectacles in their own right. The residence of Doña Catalina Solis Vda. de Aguilera and later repurposed as the Bishop’s residence, was reputedly the largest in Lipa. Its dining table could seat up to 80 guests, with tableware made entirely of solid silver and cutlery crafted from gold.
Some examples of furniture (a Mariposa divan and a marble-topped table) found in a late 19th-century Lipa home.
Centers of Hospitality and Social Activity
These homes were more than just private residences—they were vibrant centers of social, cultural, and political life. During his student years at the Ateneo, national hero José Rizal spent his summer vacations at the elegant home of his close friend, Don Mariano Katigbak. The Olaguivel-Solís mansion, famed for its gracious hospitality, hosted an impressive array of guests, including Spanish generals Lachambre and Aguirre, provincial governors Uría, Zapata, and Sastrón, and the renowned Filipinologist Wenceslao Retana.
During the Philippine Revolution of 1898–1900, several of these stately homes even sheltered Spanish prisoners of war. Similarly, the residence of Don Toribio Katigbak became the venue for high-profile visits, most notably that of Governor-General William Howard Taft and his entourage during the grand Lipa Fiesta of 1903.
These occasions offered the town’s elite a chance to display their wealth and refinement. Evenings were often marked by operatic recitals, performances on grand pianos, and elegant balls that stretched into the early hours of morning. Another landmark home was the imposing three-story mansion of Don Bernardo Solís, which would later serve as the Casa Presidencia, Lipa’s Municipal Hall, before its destruction in World War II.
One of the lavish pre-World War II balls held on the third floor of the Casa Presidencia de Lipa.
A Town of Beauty and Culture
Lipa’s reputation extended far beyond its impressive architecture and elegant furnishings. It was renowned as a town of beauty, where the Lipeños—its people—exemplified grace, refinement, and exceptional hospitality. Manuel Sastrón, the former Spanish Civil Governor of Batangas and author of the book Batangas y su Provincia (1895), attested to this. He noted that the Lipeños were not just wealthy, but they also used their money and education for the betterment and progress of their town. In praise of their hospitality, he wrote that it “went beyond the customary offering of bread and wine to those under their roof. For the Lipeños, hosting was a continuous obligation—one that included organizing hunting trips, horse races, excursions to Taal Volcano Island, dances, and a host of delightful entertainments, all extended with unfailing warmth and thoughtfulness.”
Lipa in ruins after World War II. (US National Archives and Records Administration)
The Decline and Destruction of Lipa’s Grandeur
The golden age of Lipa began to wane with the collapse of its coffee industry in 1890, caused by pest infestations that devastated its large plantations. Yet it was the Second World War that delivered the final, catastrophic blow to Lipa’s legacy. During the liberation of the Philippines, the town became a battleground between American and Japanese forces. The once-magnificent homes of the Lipeño gentry were reduced to rubble, their priceless furnishings destroyed or lost to history. The devastation was so severe that Lipa was second to Manila in terms of wartime damage. The loss of life was equally harrowing. Many residents perished, either as combatants or as victims of massacres by Japanese forces. Don Arsenio K. Luz lamented the destruction of his beloved town, writing, “Proud Lipa even in its deathbed still attained distinction.”
Inside the Librea-Luz Ancestral House, one of Lipa's few existing late 19th century homes.
A Legacy Remembered
Though most of the grand homes of Lipa have vanished, their legacy endures in the memories of those who cherish the town’s storied past. The photographs and accounts that survive paint a vivid picture of a community that once stood as a beacon of prosperity and culture. Today, Lipa’s history serves as both a testament to its resilience and an inspiration for the future, reminding its people of the heights they can achieve and the beauty they can rebuild.
The RESURGENCE OF LIPA
(from the BHE25 Organizers)
Today, Lipa City stands as a beacon of progress and resilience, transforming into one of the most sought-after places to live in the Philippines. Property prices have surged as the city continues to attract homebuyers and investors, thanks to its growing residential developments. Offering a blend of urban amenities and a serene lifestyle, Lipa has become a favorite among those seeking a balance between modern living and natural beauty.
The city’s real estate market remains robust, defying global economic uncertainties and recessions. This resilience is rooted in strong governance, with leaders prioritizing economic growth and community welfare. Infrastructure projects, business incentives, and a pro-people approach have positioned Lipa as a thriving economic hub.
Adding to its allure is the harmonious connection between housing, tourism, and cultural heritage. Lipa’s grand residential developments often integrate seamlessly with its rich traditions and vibrant festivals, such as the Fiesta of San Sebastian, the patron saint of Lipa City. This annual celebration draws visitors from far and wide, showcasing Lipa's deep cultural roots and community spirit. The festival not only highlights local hospitality but also serves as a significant driver of tourism, creating opportunities for businesses while reinforcing the city’s charm as a prime residential destination.
Emerging from the devastation of World War II, Lipa has risen like a phoenix, becoming a symbol of determination and progress. Today, it continues to shine, offering its residents a high quality of life and a promising future.
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